This substantial vegetarian stack of meltingly soft roast eggplant, tomato sauce and basil leaves scattered with mozzarella, is, in our eyes, too good to relegate to a side dish. It deserves star billing, with a rocket salad, a big hunk of crusty sourdough and a glass of something red and Italian. But we won’t come to blows if you serve it alongside grilled cutlets, a pan-fried chicken breast or even a meaty piece of fish, all the same. You do you.